Sichuan Fried Cabbage

This is the takeout-style Sichuan cabbage dish known as 手撕包菜 (hand-torn cabbage), made the shortcut way: Lao Gan Ma does the work of the chilies, the oil, the umami and the crunchy fermented bits in one spoonful, so nothing unusual is needed. The cabbage hits a screaming-hot pan and comes out with blistered edges while the thick ribs stay a little crisp. Two or three cloves of garlic are what make it taste like the real thing.

Ingredients

  • ½ green or Taiwanese cabbage (about 500 g), torn into bite-sized pieces
  • 2–3 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1 tbsp neutral oil
  • 1–2 tbsp Lao Gan Ma chili crisp
  • 1 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1–2 tsp vinegar — rice, black, or plain white
  • ½ tsp sugar (optional)
  • Salt, only if needed

Instructions

  1. Tear the cabbage into bite-sized pieces rather than cutting it. The ragged edges char much better than clean knife cuts. Keep the thick stem pieces separate from the leaves.

  2. Wash the cabbage before tearing it, then dry it well. A salad spinner is easiest; otherwise spread the pieces on a towel, cover with another, and press firmly. It does not need to be bone-dry, but visible surface water steams the cabbage instead of frying it.

  3. Heat a wok or large skillet until it is very hot. Add the oil, then the garlic and the thick stem pieces. Stir for about 30 seconds, until the garlic smells fragrant but has not browned.

  4. Add the leaves and fry hard for 2–4 minutes, tossing constantly. Do not add water, and do not crowd the pan — use two batches if it looks full.

  5. Push the cabbage to one side, add the soy sauce and 1 tbsp Lao Gan Ma, and toss for about 30 seconds. Taste, and add the rest of the chili crisp if you want more heat, plus the sugar if the cabbage tastes flat.

  6. Pour the vinegar around the edge of the hot pan rather than onto the cabbage, toss for another 10–20 seconds, and serve immediately.

The vinegar goes in at the very end so its aroma survives the heat. Serve with rice. Leftovers keep for a day or two, but this is at its best straight from the pan.

If you keep dried chilies and Sichuan peppercorns, the classic version is a little deeper: fry 5–8 cut dried chilies and ½ tsp Sichuan peppercorns in the oil for 10–15 seconds, add the garlic for another 5–10, then follow the steps above, using 1 tbsp Chinkiang black vinegar. A teaspoon of doubanjiang (Sichuan chili-bean paste) fried in after the garlic makes it heavier and even better with rice.